Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Catching up: family visits and my mysterious absence

I suppose I can't call my absence from blogging "mysterious" since everyone who reads this blog (aka my parents and my boyfriend when I remind him) is probably my friend on Facebook and saw by my massive photo dump that the last three weeks or so have been a blur of studying for midterms, showing my family around Paris, and then jetting off to Italy for a week. I'd say I have some pretty good excuses. But after spending the last couple of days recuperating (Netflix and pajamas), I'm cracking my knuckles and getting back to typing. At least, a short blog about my family before I start the novel that will be my post(s) on Italy.

Just about halfway through my semester, my parents and lil sis hopped on a direct flight from LAX to CDG to visit my beautiful face. I was really excited, not just to see them, but to show them around my new "home" and my favorite places. Of course, they had their own ideas of fun things to do (*cough cough* the Louvre is overrated!), but for the most part we compromised on the best things to do with just a short week in the City of Light. They rented a teeny tiny apartment on the Île St. Louis, right near the Notre Dame, which was a great location. It's quiet, but close to the Marais and Latin Quarter so things were definitely in walking distance. Our first stop was obviously food (duh); there is nothing better than being a college student and having your parents take you out for a meal - you can literally order whatever you want. I was in for a treat. Most of the week was spent wandering the streets: we headed over to Montmartre one afternoon, my favorite arrondissement. We saw a band playing live music on the street and went in to different thrift stores before seeing the Sacre-Cœur. Unfortunately, it was a cold, foggy night and the view isn't what it usually is from the hills of Montmartre. I didn't mind doing the things I had already done before: Disneyland, The Musée Orangerie, Brussels; I was happy to share the things I had been experiencing with someone from home. I'm sure it's much different reading it on my blog and seeing it in person.

Disneyland was more crowded than last time, but the show was just as magical. I even got souvenirs this time! (P.S. Thank you parents). I was happy to get more Belgian fries and chocolate, but the city didn't enchant me quite like it did last time; perhaps I was too exhausted from the combination of midterms and my crazy, exhausting family. We did some new, exciting things as well! I went to the top of the Eiffel Tower. OK, so I only went to the 2nd floor, but the view was still lovely. I'm not sure it's completely worth the long line, but I figured I had to do it at least once. It would be especially nice to do at dusk, but the lines are probably crazy long then. Just a few weeks ago, glass floor panels were put in on the 1st floor so you can look down to the ground from above, and I managed to forget about them until I got back to safety (read: ground). I'm kicking myself for missing the picture opportunities, but I probably would have peed my pants. The best part (besides seeing my fam) was the food. I never go to expensive restaurants since I'm a poor student in France and everything is expensive, but when parents go on vacay you know it's splurge time. I had countless scoops of the famous Berthillon ice cream (salted butter caramel and black sesame mmm), fried duck with crispy potatoes, beef bourguignon, escargot, éclairs (eaten at the Eiffel Tower cuz we fancy), and even foie gras. Apparently I forgot how to camera though because I have no pictures to show for my week of feasting. Just close your eyes and imagine...

Despite my family's penchant for annoying me to no end, I was happy to see them and share my Parisian experience with them. I'm a baby and have never spent so long away from them, but being on my own in a new country has made me feel like I can conquer the world. Doesn't mean I don't need some hugs from momma every once in a while :)

Saturday, October 18, 2014

A culinary conquest of Paris (thus far)

I'll admit it: the fashion, language, and culture of France are all amazing, but the main reason I chose to study abroad in Paris is the food. Okay, that's not completely true, I'm just being melodramatic; as a French minor Paris was an obvious choice for me, but the food was also a huge draw. So imagine my dismay when I arrived in Paris and horrifyingly found out how far my euros would get me in the cuisine department. Once I got over my initial sticker shock, I did my research and exploring and found reasonably priced spots. So as I approach the two-month anniversary of my arrival here in Paris, I compiled all of my foodie pics to put into one massive post. Bon appétit!

One of my first meals here was at a restaurant just down the street from our school, when a group of us was starving and just went to the first place we came across. When it comes to these bistro/café restaurants, they all tend to look the same so names are hard to remember. The waitress was super sweet, as most of them are here, especially when they find out we're from California! So much for Parisians being rude to Americans, yeah? Or maybe they just only like people from CA or NY... Regardless, I had the daily special which happened to be a spinach and salmon quiche. Need I say more? There is nothing better than homemade, warm quiche. Plus, the salad dressing that's universal here is amazing. It's creamy instead of vinaigrette-y and there's never too much of it. But I don't understand the obsession with giving one giant wedge of tomato. Does anyone really like tomato that much?

Grilled cheese! Okay, so it's totally American, but what could make a better grilled cheese than French cheese? There just happens to be a place nearby called The Grilled Cheese Factory  (I'm realizing more and more how un-French this place is) with beaucoup de fromage and a very cute worker. I had the fabrication chèvre, which was basically goat cheese and jam, mmm. They all come with a side of ketchup, which I'm guessing is homemade because it's very sweet but it goes well with a grilled cheese. The best part of the place though? It was playing Friends on the giant TV but dubbed in French. It was awesome and so lame at the same time. I'll definitely be going back to try the mac n cheese!

Before I came to France, I never drank coffee. Ever. I still don't drink coffee. I drink espresso, watered down with steamed milk and sugar and (sometimes) whipped cream. And it is delicious. I know I should be all cool and classic and just get the espresso shot (café) but espresso is disgusting. Sugar and whipped cream is delicious. Am I making sense? Whatever I'm drinking, sitting at a café and sipping on a warm beverage is one of the things I will miss most about Paris. When that caffeine hunger strikes and you finally sit down with your café crème (hopefully not next to someone smoking) time simply stops and it's just you and your thoughts. I also like to bring my book and read while I sip, since cafés here let you stay virtually as long as you like. That's the whole point of the café break here - it's a time for relaxing and enjoying life. It's actually pretty difficult to find coffee to go in France, unless you're at Starbucks. So a few times a week I make sure to head over to a café with or without a book in hand to sit back with my sugared-up coffee and enjoy Parisian people watching.


Luckily for my taste buds, the Marais district (the Jewish district) is within walking distance of my apartment, which means I have all the falafel I could ever dream of. Never having had falafel before, I had no idea what I was missing out on. I've now tried two of the popular falafel places in the Marais and I've come to the conclusion that L'As du Fallafel is the tastiest. I'm a fan of the more crispier falafel, plus they actually manage to make the texture of eggplant seem appealing. It's much cheaper to take your food to go, so we grab our pittas and take a walk, trying not to let any of the precious balls fall out (heh) of the soft, warm bread. Plus it's only six euros! PLUS the cabbage mixed with the sauce turns the bread all purple and it looks festive as I eat.

What the heck is more French than fondue?? Probably a lot of stuff, but fondue was something I had to have while I was here. My school set up a fondue dinner for anyone who signed up and it included a meat and broth course, cheese and bread course, and of course a chocolate and fruit course. The restaurant, L'assiette aux Fromages, was cozy and warm, the perfect atmosphere for a gooey, cheesy dinner. The huge pots of broth and cheese came with a dish of roasted potatoes, cubed bread, and raw meat for cooking to our preference. I concocted the perfect bite, which was a piece of bread fried until golden, dipped in cheese, and then topped with a cube of rare beef. I think I'm now schooled in the art of French cooking. Then I embarrassed myself by licking molten chocolate off a grape because they didn't give us spoons.

One of the girls in the program took me to Le Pause Café after a day trip ended late due to traffic. I was so hungry and tired, I would have followed her anywhere. Thankfully for my empty belly, she took me to one of my new favorite restaurants here in Paris. I ended up just choosing something pretty randomly and hoping for the best and oh was I lucky! I happened to order shredded duck, topped with mashed potato and salad and swimming in a meaty broth. The French sure love their duck, and I don't blame them because they really do it well here. This was one of the best meals I've had in France. Plus, the waiters are cute and friendly, and it's a very young and hip place to hangout. I've been back again to get the veggie lasagna and drinks with some friends and so far I haven't tried anything bad from Le Pause.

Before this turns into the ramblings of a hunger crazed woman (maybe I should have written this after dinner), I will just mention the French onion soup I had while visiting Versailles. I'm not sure if it would be called "French" onion soup if you're actually in France, but it's much, much better than the soup in America. This one had more cheese and crouton than broth, but the broth it did have was flavorful and chock full of sweet onions. It was also huge; we ordered them as appetizers but afterwards I was too full to finish my chicken. It may be a touristy thing to eat, but damn the stereotypes because it was delicious. Hopefully anyone reading this is now as hungry as I am and I didn't even get a chance to write about Parisian desserts. Until next time...

Friday, October 17, 2014

So an English major walks into Shakespeare & Co...


As an English major and Shakespeare nerd, one of the things I was most excited to see in Paris was the famous Shakespeare & Company bookstore in the 5th arrondissement. It's the kind of place you hear people talk about, but I actually had no idea what it would look like. Turns out, it's a teeny and ancient building stuffed with books (new & old) and walls covered with eccentric decorations and dim lighting. The narrow staircase creaks with every step and the whole place has that "old book smell" that I've come to love. Basically, the coolest place ever. And what better way to experience Shakespeare & Co than with a group reading of Hamlet? When my friend Sophie, a bigger Shakespeare fanatic than me, told me about these monthly readings, I was super excited especially since Hamlet is one of my favorite plays. I asked for a small part, though, because I didn't know how intense everyone else would take it and I didn't want to screw up the bard's words with my ungraceful tongue. Luckily, no one took it too seriously and everyone just rolled with the awkward pauses and mispronounced words. At one point I forgot what character I was supposed to play, but I wasn't the only one. Besides, after a few glasses of wine and some intense Shakespeare action, no one minds a few slip-ups.


My main gal Millie and a platter of quiche and wine















It was kind of nice to go somewhere and have no anxiety about speaking or reading French. Most of the people there were either British or American visitors, so there was no pressure to practice my hideous accent with them. There were actually quite a few people from California, and that's always nice since I have been a bit homesick lately. One of the best parts was the free quiche and wine - is there anything fancier or French? Especially when it's red wine, which I normally don't drink but I can't turn down free wine. It's still weird to be offered alcohol that wasn't poured by a sketchy-looking guy at a party. However, Millie, the nice woman who ran the reading was not sketchy at all, but perfectly nice and encouraging. She stressed that the night was just about enjoying the play, not showcasing our (nonexistent in my case) acting skills. I had the honor of reading Reynaldo, a minor servant character, as well as a bit part as an actor and later, a sailor. I'm quite the renaissance man when it comes to reading lines. The whole time everyone else was reading, I kept hoping I would have a line soon, so I think I'm not cut out to sit back and watch; at least, when it comes to Shakespeare! Next month is Twelfth Night and hopefully I'll be able to return in a starring role, completely taking over the night with crazy diva demands. I only want vintage rosé set out in vintage wine glasses and I want a bowl of m&ms but only red ones. Also, I want to play every role while everyone just sits back and watches. Or, even better, I just want the reading to be a reenactment of the movie She's The Man instead of Twelfth Night since they're basically the same thing, right? I'm sure old Billy Shakespeare would agree with me.





Thursday, October 9, 2014

A trip through Monet's paintings


Waking up before dawn is occasionally worthwhile, especially when it leads to a visit to Rouen and Giverny, two towns outside of Paris where Claude Monet painted some of his most known tableaus, like the Cathedral series and his most famous, the water lilies. After a sleepy bus ride, our first stop of Rouen approached. I was expecting a "ye olde village" kind of place, but it was actually relatively modern and had more stores than old town charm. It was still very cute and quaint, with a huge, golden clock in the center square and a few small chocolate and pastry shops on the corners. One of my favorite parts was the memorial to Joan of Arc, the patron saint of France. Rouen is where she was eventually burned alive for heresy. Deep stuff. Instead of the plaque I kind of wish they had an empty stake where I could stand and later photoshop flames around my body. It's been 600 years, I can make jokes right? After passing through the village, we came upon the snazzy chapel that I recognized from the paintings in the Musée d'Orsay, which I had conveniently gone to see just two days prior. It's enormous, with a huge tower added onto the roof that you can see from outside of the town. Unfortunately, part of it was under renovation so, alas, getting a good picture was out of the question but I did my best. Inside were enormous red and blue stained glass windows as well as a row of old, crumbling statues that slightly resembled humans. Except for one which I'm pretty sure was just a lump of stone with a name put over it. As if the good times could not stop rolling, our next stop was the site of an old plague cemetery. I think I could still smell the old plague-smell. Luckily, after a pit stop for macarons and souvenirs, we were back on the bus to Giverny.


Giverny was much more like an old village of yore than Rouen, complete with cows along the road and what appeared to be an emu. Giverny is known for being the home to Monet and his family and where his famous gardens are located. The first garden was located just in front of his house and was in full bloom, complete with flowers of every color, butterflies, and swarms of bees. We leisurely walked along the paths, enjoying the late summer weather and fresh flowers. At the edge of the garden you come upon Monet's house, looking straight out of a country cottage fairy tale. Inside, each room was painted an overly bright yellow or purple or green. I'm not sure if this was how it looked when Monet actually lived there, but it reminded me of Minnie and Mickey's house in Toontown. Besides the old staircase, the house just seemed odd but the upstairs offered a nice view of the garden and the enormous kitchen had a cool copper stove with a built-in coffee carafe. Eyes burning from the neon walls, we changed course to the second garden: the famous water lily pond. It was full of asiatic bridges and greenery, although only a few lilies in the water; I guess October isn't their blooming season. Nonetheless, it was gorgeous and looked exactly like the paintings, even after all this time. I could see why Monet fell in love with Giverny and decided to live there. I walked over the bridges, eating macarons and sneaking peeks at the cows through the bordering fence. If there weren't so many tourists, it would be the perfect place to sit and read a book in peace. Or better yet, paint a picture.






Thursday, October 2, 2014

The (Second) Happiest Place on Earth!

Friday morning I woke up early to head to Disneyland Paris with a few people for my friend Remy's 20th birthday. It made me wonder why I have never spent a birthday at Disneyland... hint hint for all my 21st birthday is in February. Luckily getting to Disneyland from Gare de Lyon (right by our apartments) is super easy - just a simple RER ride away. Yeah, I got all the metro lingo down now. So usually you have to pay to take the RER if it's not dezoned, like it is on Saturday and Sunday... don't judge us, but we managed to sneak our way through once we got to the Disneyland station. Oopsies. But we were finally there and I was beyond excited. Disneyland is my favorite place in the world, so I figured Disneyland Paris would be even better! Overall, it was a really fun day and I loved seeing the similarities and differences between the two parks. But there was a distinct lack of magic going on at this park. It was kind of like the younger brother of the OG D-land who tries too hard to be like his older brother, but just ends up coming up short. Poor lil D-land.


Our first stop was Space Mountain because it's usually the most crowded ride at the park. While in line, I started to get a bit nervous because the ride looked like it was an outside roller coaster, which I'm not a huge fan of. Turns out, the beginning of the ride is like a rocket launcher, which is totally cooler than the OG space mountain. But inside it was like a torture chamber: the ride goes so fast and rough that my head was literally bouncing around the headrest and I think I may have gotten whiplash (ouch). That wasn't the only ride that differed from its California counterpart: the Indiana Jones ride was not really a ride, just a normal roller coaster. I'm not sure what was "Indiana Jones" about it besides its name. You could definitely tell that this park had been built with older people in mind - the rides were much more intense and geared towards people my age. But part of the charm of Disneyland is the nostalgia! I like to go to remind me of being a little girl obsessed with watching Disney movies. You know, as opposed to being grown up and obsessed with them (I may or may not be watching Tangled as I write...).

Can you tell I love the Sleeping Beauty castle?
The park is very small and there aren't many rides, so we actually went on almost everything in about three hours. Luckily, the lines were crazy short. Usually at Disneyland lines can be up to an hour long, but our longest line was only about 25 minutes. This meant we could go on some rides more than once and simply spend a lot of the day just walking around enjoying the scenery. One thing Paris has on CA is that the park is beautiful. A lot of it is expansive greenery and water attractions. My favorite is the big green pond featuring the old man and the little boy from Up! sitting on a little bench next to it. There were so many little hidden surprises throughout the park, including a few new attractions I'd never seen. There was a Wonderland Labyrinth which led to an amazing view from the top of the Queen of Heart's castle. We really wanted to go on the new Ratatouille attraction, but it ended up being in the other park, which we didn't have tickets for. One of my favorite parts was the hidden dragon's lair within the Sleeping Beauty castle, where a really realistically animated and colorful dragon roared at us. California needs to step up its game in the dragon department.

The best part of the entire trip, however, came at the very end of the day when the park was closing. The park technically closes at 8:30 (so early!), but at that exact time begins an amazing lights and sound show similar to Fantasmic at Disneyland. A huge crowd forms around the castle, but we nudged our way in, probably blocking some kids' views but that's their prob for being shorter than me. Finally at 8:30 it began: I had no idea what to expect but it was amazing. The entire castle was lit up like a screen and scenes from Disney movies were projected onto its face. The story followed Peter Pan's runaway shadow who travels into other Disney worlds. Some of the songs were in English and some in French which made it even cooler. My favorite part was when Lumière sang "Be Our Guest" (C'est la fête!) in French. I will unashamedly admit that I teared up a bit during the show, but anyone who knows me knows I love Disneyland more than anything. I was so grateful to be there and experiencing something that I loved so much in a new country. I'm not sure if I'll have a chance to go back, but I'd love to see it at Christmastime!